You've Received Your New Nikon Z8. Now What?
A practical, field-tested guide to configuring your Nikon Z8 for wildlife photography.
By the end of this guide you'll be able to:
• Configure your Nikon Z8 for wildlife photography.
• Understand autofocus and subject detection.
• Set up exposure for wildlife.
• Learn the field techniques I use every week.
• Avoid the most common beginner mistakes.
Congratulations on your new Nikon Z8!
Whether you've upgraded from another Nikon camera, switched from a different system, or are holding a Z8 for the very first time, you've invested in one of Nikon's most capable mirrorless cameras. It's an exciting moment, but if you've already opened the menus, you may also be wondering where to begin.
The Nikon Z8 is an incredibly powerful camera. Its autofocus system, custom controls and extensive menu options allow you to tailor it to your own style of photography. However, that flexibility can feel overwhelming during the first few hours of ownership.
This guide has been written specifically for new Nikon Z8 owners. Rather than explaining every menu option, I'll walk you through the first settings I recommend changing, explain why they matter, and help you prepare your camera for its first outing with confidence.
Keep your Nikon Z8 beside you and follow each step in order. By the end of this guide, your camera will be configured and ready to use, and you'll have a much better understanding of how it all fits together.
This guide is regularly updated to reflect new Nikon Z8 firmware and my own experience using the camera in the field.
Getting Started
Camera:
Nikon Z8
Designed for:
New Nikon Z8 owners
Time Required:
Approximately 1 to 2 hours (read at your own pace)
Firmware:
Written for the latest Nikon Z8 firmware and updated as new firmware is released.
Best Viewed:
Alongside your camera on a tablet or laptop.
.png)
Follow each step in order. There's no need to understand every menu straight away. By the end of this guide, your Nikon Z8 will be configured and ready for wildlife photography.
Before We Begin
Before changing any settings, spend a few minutes preparing your camera.
These five steps only take a few minutes and ensure your Nikon Z8 is ready to be configured.
Why this matters
Your Nikon Z8 is supplied with an EN-EL15c rechargeable battery. Before using the camera for the first time, fully charge the battery using the supplied charger or a compatible USB-C PD charger.
A full charge ensures the camera won't switch off during firmware updates or the initial setup process.
What to do:
-
Insert the battery into the supplied charger.
-
Charge until the indicator shows the battery is full.
-
Insert the battery into the camera.
Continue when...
Once the battery is fully charged, continue to Step 2.
-
Why this matters
The Nikon Z8 features two memory card slots, allowing you to record photographs and video to one card or both cards, depending on how you configure the recording options.
What to do:
-
Open the memory card compartment on the right-hand side of the camera.
-
Insert your CFexpress Type B card into Slot 1.
-
If you intend to use a second card, insert an SD (UHS-II) card into Slot 2.
-
Close the memory card compartment securely.
Tip
If you're only using one card, install it in Slot 1 (CFexpress Type B). This is the primary slot and offers the highest performance.
Continue when...
Both memory cards are correctly inserted and the memory card compartment is securely closed.-
Why this matters
Nikon regularly releases firmware updates that improve autofocus performance, add new features, fix bugs and enhance compatibility with lenses and accessories. Before configuring your camera, it's worth checking that you're running the latest firmware.
What to do:
-
Press the MENU button.
-
Navigate to the Setup Menu (spanner icon).
-
Scroll to Firmware version and press OK.
-
Note the firmware version displayed.
-
Compare it with the latest version available from Nikon's Download Centre.
Tip
Firmware updates can introduce new features, improve autofocus performance, fix bugs and add menu options that may affect later steps in this guide.
Continue when...
Your Nikon Z8 is running the latest firmware, or you've confirmed that you're happy to update it later before completing the rest of this guide.
Download the latest Nikon Z8 firmware from Nikon's official Download Centre.
-
Why this matters
Every photograph you capture contains metadata, including the date, time and other camera information. Setting these correctly ensures your images are organised in the correct order, simplifies importing into software such as Lightroom Classic, and provides accurate information for archives and competitions.
What to Do:
-
Press the MENU button.
-
Navigate to the Setup Menu (spanner icon).
-
Select Time zone and date.
-
Set your Time zone.
-
Set the Date.
-
Set the Time.
-
Confirm the Date format.
-
Enable Daylight Saving Time if applicable.
Tip
If you regularly travel abroad, update the Time zone rather than manually changing the clock. This ensures your photographs retain accurate capture times and remain correctly ordered when imported into your editing software.
Continue when...
The correct time zone, date and time have been set, and the camera is displaying the correct local time.
-
Why this Matters
Every photograph captured by your Nikon Z8 can include your name and copyright details within its metadata (EXIF). While this won't prevent someone from copying your images, it helps identify you as the creator and ensures your photographs carry your ownership information throughout your editing workflow.
What to Do:
-
Press the MENU button.
-
Navigate to the Setup Menu (spanner icon).
-
Select Copyright information.
-
Turn Attach copyright information ON.
-
Select Artist and enter your name.
-
Select Copyright and enter a copyright notice, for example:
-
© 2026 Alan Young
-
-
Press OK to save your settings.
Tip
Use your real name rather than a nickname or social media username. If you're a member of a photography club or organisation, use the name you'd like associated with your photographs.
Remember to update the copyright year at the beginning of each new year.
Continue when...
Your name and copyright information have been saved, and Attach copyright information is enabled.
-
Preparation Complete
Configure Your Nikon Z8
Your Nikon Z8 is now ready to be configured.
In the next section, we'll configure the camera using the settings I recommend for every new Nikon Z8 owner. They provide a solid foundation for wildlife photography and can easily be refined as your experience grows.
Don't worry if some of the settings are unfamiliar. I'll explain what each one does, why it matters, and when you might want to change it.
Why this matters
Formatting your memory cards in the camera ensures they use the correct Nikon folder structure and file system. It also removes any files left from another camera or computer, reducing the chance of recording errors.
For best performance, always format cards in the camera before an important shoot.
What to do:
-
Insert your CFexpress Type B card into Slot 1.
-
Insert your SD (UHS-II) card into Slot 2 if you intend to use one.
-
Press the MENU button.
-
Open the Setup Menu (spanner icon).
-
Select Format memory card.
-
Choose the card you wish to format.
-
Confirm the warning message.
-
Repeat for the second card if installed.
Tip
Formatting permanently deletes everything on the selected card. Always copy any photographs you wish to keep before formatting.
If you mainly photograph wildlife, use a high-quality CFexpress Type B card in Slot 1 for the fastest burst rates and buffer performance.
Continue when...
Both memory cards have been formatted in the Nikon Z8 and are ready for use.
Next we'll choose the image quality settings that determine how your photographs are recorded.
-
Why this matters
The image quality settings determine how much information is recorded every time you press the shutter.
Choosing the correct settings from the start gives you the greatest flexibility when editing and ensures you're making full use of the Nikon Z8's outstanding image quality.
For wildlife photography, I recommend recording RAW files only. RAW files retain the maximum amount of image data, allowing greater control over exposure, white balance, noise reduction and fine detail during post-processing.
What to do:
-
Press the MENU button.
-
Open the Photo Shooting Menu (camera icon).
-
Select Image quality.
-
Choose RAW.
-
Select RAW recording.
-
Choose Lossless Compression.
-
Select Image size and choose Large.
Tip
My preferred setting is:
-
Image Quality: RAW
-
RAW Recording: Lossless Compression
-
Image Size: Large
Lossless Compression preserves all of the original image data while producing smaller files than Uncompressed RAW. It provides excellent image quality and is my preferred choice for wildlife photography.
Continue when...
Your Nikon Z8 is set to record RAW (Lossless Compression) images at Large size.
Next we'll configure the Colour Space.
-
Why this matters
The colour space determines how colours are represented in your photographs. While RAW files retain all of the original sensor data, the colour space affects the embedded preview, histogram and any JPEG files created by the camera.
I use Adobe RGB because it provides a wider colour gamut than sRGB and integrates well with my Lightroom Classic workflow and fine art printing.
What to do:
-
Press the MENU button.
-
Open the Photo Shooting Menu (camera icon).
-
Select Colour space.
-
Choose Adobe RGB.
Tip
My Nikon Z8 is permanently set to Adobe RGB. I edit all of my RAW files in Lightroom Classic before exporting them for web use or printing. This workflow allows me to maintain the maximum colour information throughout editing before converting to the appropriate output colour space when required.
If you only shoot JPEGs for immediate sharing online, sRGB may be a better choice. However, if you photograph in RAW and edit your images, Adobe RGB is an excellent option.
Continue when...
Your Nikon Z8 is set to Adobe RGB.
Next we'll configure Image Review, allowing you to quickly check focus and exposure while shooting.
-
Why this matters
The Focus Mode determines how the camera focuses, while the AF-area Mode determines where it focuses. Understanding the difference between these two settings is fundamental to getting consistent autofocus performance.
What to do
-
Press the i button or open the Photo Shooting Menu.
-
Select Focus Mode.
-
Choose the appropriate mode for your subject:
AF-S (Single AF)
-
Best for stationary subjects.
-
The camera focuses once and locks focus.
-
Ideal for landscapes, architecture and still wildlife.
AF-C (Continuous AF)
-
Best for moving subjects.
-
The camera continuously adjusts focus while the shutter button is half-pressed.
-
Recommended for birds, wildlife and action photography.
-
This is the mode I use for almost all wildlife photography.
MF (Manual Focus)
-
Focus is adjusted manually using the lens focus ring.
-
Useful for macro photography, landscapes and situations where autofocus struggles.
Full-time Manual (M/A)
-
The camera autofocuses first, but you can instantly fine-tune focus by turning the focus ring.
-
Helpful for precise adjustments without changing focus mode.
Tip
Don't worry about choosing the perfect autofocus behaviour yet. In the next section you'll select the AF-area Mode, which works alongside the Focus Mode and has an even greater impact on tracking birds and wildlife.
Continue when...
You've selected the Focus Mode that best matches the type of photography you intend to do. For wildlife, AF-C is the recommended starting point.-
Why this matters
The AF-area mode determines where the Nikon Z8 looks for focus within the frame. Combined with Subject Detection, it has a significant impact on autofocus performance and is one of the most important settings you'll use in the field.
The Nikon Z8 offers several AF-area modes, each designed for different subjects and shooting situations. While we'll explore them in more detail later in this guide, it's useful to understand the basics before taking your first photographs.
What to do:
-
Press the i button or assign AF-area mode to a custom control.
-
Highlight AF-area mode.
-
Rotate the Main Command Dial to cycle through the available AF-area modes.
-
Select the mode that best suits your subject.
My recommendation
For photographers new to the Nikon Z8, I recommend starting with:
-
Auto-area AF for general photography.
-
Wide-area AF (L) for perched birds and larger wildlife.
-
3D-tracking for birds in flight and moving subjects, once you're comfortable with the camera.
These three modes will cover the vast majority of wildlife situations.
Tip
Don't feel you need to master every AF-area mode straight away. Spend time learning just three modes first. As your confidence grows, you'll naturally discover when another mode might be a better choice.
Continue when...
You're familiar with the main AF-area modes and know how to switch between them.
Next we'll configure the Focus Mode, which determines how the camera focuses once you've selected an AF-area mode.
-
Why this matters
The Release Mode determines how your Nikon Z8 captures photographs when you press the shutter button. From a single image to high-speed bursts, choosing the correct mode helps you capture the moment while avoiding unnecessary files.
For wildlife photography, I regularly switch between Single Frame for stationary subjects and Continuous High when photographing birds in flight or fast-moving wildlife.
What to do:
-
Press the Release Mode button on the top-left shoulder of the camera.
-
Rotate the Main Command Dial to cycle through the available release modes.
-
Select S (Single Frame) for perched birds, landscapes and general photography.
-
Select Continuous H when photographing action or birds in flight.
Tip
Avoid leaving the camera in a continuous release mode all the time. Shooting long bursts can quickly fill your memory cards, slow your image review and significantly increase the time spent editing.
I generally use Single Frame for wildlife that is resting or feeding and switch to Continuous High only when I anticipate movement, such as take-offs, landings or birds in flight.
Continue when...
You're comfortable selecting Single Frame and Continuous High, and understand when each mode is most appropriate.
Next we'll configure the Camera Controls, allowing you to personalise the Nikon Z8 for faster operation in the field.-
Why this matters
Image Review determines whether a photograph is automatically displayed on the rear monitor immediately after it's taken. While this can be useful when you're learning your camera, constantly reviewing every image can interrupt your concentration and cause you to miss the next photographic opportunity.
For wildlife photography, I prefer to leave Image Review switched Off and check my photographs only when I choose.
What to do:
-
Press the MENU button.
-
Open the Playback Menu (Playback icon).
-
Select Image review.
-
Choose Off.
Tip
With Image Review switched Off, your Nikon Z8 remains ready to capture the next image without automatically displaying the previous one. This is particularly useful when photographing birds in flight or fast-moving wildlife, where the next opportunity can appear in an instant.
If you want to check a photograph, simply press the Playback button when there's a natural pause in the action.
Continue when...
Image Review is set to Off and you're comfortable reviewing images manually using the Playback button.
Next we'll customise the camera controls, making frequently used functions quicker and easier to access in the field.
-
Why this matters
One of the Nikon Z8's greatest strengths is its customisation. Many of the camera's buttons, dials and controls can be assigned to the functions you use most often, reducing the need to search through menus while you're photographing.
Rather than adapting your photography to the camera, you can adapt the camera to suit the way you work.
What to do:
-
Press the MENU button.
-
Open the Custom Settings Menu (pencil icon).
-
Navigate to the Controls section.
-
Explore the available options for assigning custom functions to buttons and controls.
-
Begin with one or two customisations that support your style of photography.
Tip
There's no need to customise every button on your first day with the Nikon Z8. Spend some time using the camera before deciding which controls you access most frequently. As your confidence grows, you can personalise the camera to match your own workflow.
My Nikon Z8 has evolved over time. The controls I use today are the result of thousands of photographs in the field, not something I configured on the first day.
Continue when...
You're familiar with where the camera control settings are located and understand that they can be customised as your experience grows.
Next we'll create your own personalised My Menu, giving you quick access to the settings you use most often.
-
Why this matters
The Nikon Z8 includes a feature called My Menu, allowing you to create your own personalised menu of frequently used settings. Rather than searching through multiple menu pages, you can place the options you use most often in one convenient location.
As you become more familiar with the camera, My Menu will quickly become one of the features you use the most.
What to do:
-
Press the MENU button.
-
Navigate to My Menu (green star icon).
-
Select Add items.
-
Browse the available menus and choose the settings you use most frequently.
-
Arrange the items into the order that best suits your workflow.
Tip
There's no right or wrong way to organise My Menu. Mine has evolved over time and contains the settings I regularly need while photographing wildlife.
Good examples include:
-
Subject Detection Options
-
AF-area Mode
-
Format Memory Card
-
Silent Mode
-
Image Quality
Your own menu will probably change as your photography develops, so don't be afraid to update it whenever you discover a more efficient way of working.
Continue when...
You've added your first few frequently used settings to My Menu and understand how to edit or rearrange them later.
Next we'll save your settings, ensuring your preferred camera configuration can be restored whenever you need it.
-
Why this matters
Once you've configured your Nikon Z8, it's worth saving your settings. A backup allows you to restore your preferred camera configuration if you reset the camera, update the firmware or purchase a second Nikon Z8.
Taking a few minutes to save your settings now can save considerable time in the future.
What to do:
-
Insert a formatted memory card into the camera.
-
Press the MENU button.
-
Open the Setup Menu (spanner icon).
-
Select Save/load menu settings.
-
Choose Save menu settings.
-
Follow the on-screen instructions to save your current configuration to the memory card.
Tip
Whenever you make significant changes to your camera setup, create a new backup. It's a simple habit that ensures your preferred settings are never more than a few minutes away from being restored.
I keep a copy of my Nikon Z8 settings backed up so I can quickly restore them whenever needed.
Continue when...
Your Nikon Z8 settings have been successfully saved to your memory card.
-
Congratulations. Your Nikon Z8 is now configured and ready to use. In the following sections, I'll explain the autofocus and exposure settings I use for wildlife photography, why I use them, and when you might choose something different.
Understanding the Nikon Z8 Autofocus System
The following settings form the foundation of my own Nikon Z8 workflow. They aren't the only way to configure the camera, but they provide an excellent starting point for most photographers and can easily be adapted as your experience grows.
Now that your camera is configured, let's explore the Nikon Z8 autofocus system. Understanding how Focus Modes, AF-area Modes and Subject Detection work together will help you choose the right combination for every subject.
Why this matters
The Nikon Z8 offers four Focus Modes that determine how the camera acquires and maintains focus. Choosing the correct mode is just as important as selecting the appropriate AF-area Mode.
For wildlife photography, you'll spend most of your time using AF-C, but understanding when to use the other modes will help you get the best results in different situations.
AF-S (Single Autofocus)
The camera focuses once when you half-press the shutter button and then locks focus until the photograph is taken.
Best for:
-
Landscapes
-
Architecture
-
Perched birds that aren't moving
-
Still life
AF-C (Continuous Autofocus)
The camera continuously updates focus while the shutter button is half-pressed or AF-ON is held, allowing it to track moving subjects.
Best for:
-
Birds in flight
-
Wildlife
-
Sports
-
Moving subjects
This is the Focus Mode I use for almost all wildlife photography.
MF (Manual Focus)
Focus is adjusted manually using the lens focus ring. Autofocus is disabled.
Best for:
-
Macro photography
-
Night photography
-
Landscapes using a tripod
-
Situations where autofocus struggles
Full-time Manual Focus (M/A)
The camera autofocuses normally, but you can instantly fine-tune focus simply by turning the focus ring without changing modes.
Best for:
-
Subjects requiring precise focus adjustments.
-
Situations where autofocus gets close but needs slight refinement.
Recommendation
For most photographers:
-
Wildlife: AF-C
-
Birds in Flight: AF-C
-
General Photography: AF-C
-
Landscapes: AF-S
-
Macro: MF or Full-time Manual
Continue when...
You understand what each Focus Mode does and have selected the one most appropriate for your photography. In the next section we'll look at AF-area Modes, which determine where the camera focuses and work alongside the Focus Mode.
Next we'll explore AF-area Modes, which determine where the camera focuses and are the key to achieving reliable autofocus performance with the Nikon Z8.-
Why this matters
While the Focus Mode determines how the camera focuses, the AF-area Mode determines where it focuses. Selecting the right AF-area Mode is one of the most important decisions you can make and has a significant impact on autofocus performance.
The Nikon Z8 offers a range of AF-area Modes, each designed for different subjects and shooting situations. Understanding their strengths will help you choose the right mode for every photograph.
Pinpoint AF
Uses an extremely small focus point for maximum precision.
Best for:
-
Macro photography
-
Static subjects
-
Precise focus placement
Single-point AF
Uses a single autofocus point selected by the photographer.
Best for:
-
Perched birds
-
Portraits
-
Stationary wildlife
-
Subjects with distracting backgrounds
Dynamic-area AF
Uses your selected focus point, with surrounding points assisting if the subject briefly moves away.
Best for:
-
Predictable wildlife movement
-
Larger birds
-
Sports
Wide-area AF (S)
Uses a small group of focus points to make acquiring focus easier while maintaining precision.
Best for:
-
Perched birds
-
Wildlife among branches
-
General photography
Wide-area AF (L)
Uses a larger focus area, making it easier to keep moving subjects within the autofocus region.
Best for:
-
Birds taking off
-
Larger wildlife
-
Action photography
Wide-area AF (C1 & C2)
Allows you to create your own custom autofocus area size and shape.
Best for:
-
Birds in flight
-
Subjects following predictable flight paths
-
Wildlife photography where a customised focus area improves tracking
3D-tracking
Allows you to select a subject, with the camera tracking it across the frame as it moves.
Best for:
-
Birds in flight
-
Wildlife moving against clean backgrounds
-
Subjects moving unpredictably
Auto-area AF
The camera automatically selects focus points and, when enabled, combines this with Subject Detection.
Best for:
-
General photography
-
Fast-changing situations
-
When you want the camera to choose the subject automatically
My recommendation
For my own wildlife photography, I primarily use:
-
Single-point AF for perched birds.
-
Wide-area AF (C1) for birds in flight.
-
3D-tracking when a subject is isolated against a clean background.
-
Auto-area AF with Bird Subject Detection for certain flight situations.
No single AF-area Mode is perfect for every subject. The key is understanding when each one offers the greatest advantage.
Continue when...
You understand the purpose of each AF-area Mode and when to use it.
Next we'll look at Subject Detection and how it works alongside the autofocus system to improve subject recognition and tracking.-
Why this matters
Subject Detection enables the Nikon Z8 to recognise supported subjects such as people, birds, animals, vehicles and aircraft. When combined with the appropriate Focus Mode and AF-area Mode, it can significantly improve autofocus accuracy and subject tracking.
Selecting the correct subject type helps the camera identify eyes, heads or bodies more quickly, particularly when photographing moving subjects.
Auto
The camera automatically selects the subject type it believes best matches the scene.
Best for:
-
General photography
-
Mixed subjects
-
When subjects change frequently
People
Optimised for detecting and tracking human faces and eyes.
Best for:
-
Portraits
-
Weddings
-
Events
-
Street photography
Animals
Optimised for mammals, reptiles and other non-human animals.
Best for:
-
Wildlife photography
-
Zoo photography
-
Pets
-
Subjects where eye detection is important
Birds
Designed specifically for detecting and tracking birds, including birds in flight and perched birds.
Best for:
-
Birds in flight
-
Perched birds
-
Waterfowl
-
Garden birds
-
Birds against busy backgrounds
Vehicles
Optimised for cars, motorcycles, trains and bicycles.
Best for:
-
Motorsport
-
Road photography
-
Railway photography
-
Cycling events
Aircraft
Optimised for aircraft and helicopters.
Best for:
-
Air shows
-
Aviation photography
-
Helicopters
-
Aircraft in flight
Tip
Always select the specific subject type whenever possible. While Auto works well in many situations, choosing Birds when photographing birds or People when photographing portraits usually provides faster and more consistent subject detection.
My starting point
For wildlife photography I typically use:
-
Subject Detection: Birds
-
Focus Mode: AF-C
-
AF-area Mode: Wide-area AF (C1/C2) or 3D Tracking, depending on the subject
-
Eye Detection: Enabled
If I'm photographing mammals, I simply change Subject Detection from Birds to Animals.
Continue when...
You understand what each Subject Detection mode is designed to recognise and can confidently select the most appropriate option before you begin shooting.
Next we'll look at My Recommended Wildlife Settings, where I'll show how I combine Focus Mode, AF-area Mode and Subject Detection for different wildlife situations.
-
Why this matters
There isn't a single autofocus setting that's perfect for every wildlife subject. The best results come from choosing a combination of Focus Mode, AF-area Mode and Subject Detection that matches the behaviour of the animal you're photographing.
These are the autofocus settings I use most often with my Nikon Z8. They have been refined through extensive field use and provide a reliable starting point for most wildlife photography.
Perched Birds
-
Focus Mode: AF-C
-
AF-area Mode: Single-point AF
-
Subject Detection: Bird
Why I use it
This combination gives me precise control over the autofocus point, making it easier to focus accurately on the bird's eye while avoiding distracting branches or vegetation.
Birds in Flight
-
Focus Mode: AF-C
-
AF-area Mode: Wide-area AF (C1)
-
Subject Detection: Bird
Why I use it
The custom AF-area provides a larger focus zone, making it easier to acquire and maintain focus while tracking fast-moving birds against changing backgrounds.
Mammals
-
Focus Mode: AF-C
-
AF-area Mode: Wide-area AF (L)
-
Subject Detection: Animal
Why I use it
A larger autofocus area makes it easier to maintain focus on mammals that move unpredictably through woodland, grassland or other natural habitats.
Macro Photography
-
Focus Mode: MF or AF-S
-
AF-area Mode: Pinpoint AF
-
Subject Detection: Off
Why I use it
Macro photography demands precise focus placement. Pinpoint AF or Manual Focus provides greater control when photographing insects, flowers and other close-up subjects.
General Wildlife
-
Focus Mode: AF-C
-
AF-area Mode: Auto-area AF
-
Subject Detection: Auto
Why I use it
When I'm unsure what I might encounter, this combination provides a flexible starting point and allows the camera to identify and track a wide variety of subjects.
Tip
These settings are not fixed rules. They're simply the combinations I return to most often. As your experience grows, you'll naturally adapt them to suit your own style of photography, preferred subjects and shooting conditions.
Continue when...
You understand which autofocus combinations are best suited to different wildlife subjects and have a reliable starting point for your own photography.
Next we'll look at Nikon's Photo Shooting Banks and Custom Settings Banks, allowing you to save different camera configurations for different types of photography.
My field tip
Don't feel you have to memorise every autofocus combination. Start with one setup, use it until it becomes second nature, then gradually add others as your confidence grows. Consistency will improve your results far more than constantly changing settings.-
The following topics explain how Nikon's autofocus system works and how I use it in the field. You don't need to read them in order. Open the sections most relevant to the type of photography you enjoy.
Next, we'll look at how to achieve consistent exposure with the Nikon Z8. I'll explain the exposure techniques I use for wildlife photography and why they work in the field.
Exposure for Wildlife Photography
Getting autofocus right is only half the story. Consistent exposure is just as important for producing well-exposed, detailed wildlife photographs. In this section, I'll explain the exposure techniques I use with the Nikon Z8, why I use them, and how they help me achieve reliable results in the field.
The following topics explain how Nikon's autofocus system works and how I use it in the field. You don't need to read them in order, so feel free to open the sections most relevant to the subjects you photograph.
What to do
-
Turn the Mode Dial to M (Manual).
-
Select the shutter speed appropriate for your subject.
-
Select the aperture required for your lens and subject.
-
Press the ISO button and enable Auto ISO.
-
Set a Maximum ISO limit. I recommend ISO 6400 as a sensible starting point.
-
Set the Minimum Shutter Speed to Off when using Manual mode.
-
Use the exposure meter or Exposure Compensation to fine-tune brightness when required.
Tip
Your shutter speed controls motion, your aperture controls depth of field, and Auto ISO adjusts sensitivity.
Think of Auto ISO as the camera's way of compensating for changing light while you remain in complete control of the photograph.
My starting point
For birds in flight I typically use:
-
Exposure Mode: Manual
-
Auto ISO: On
-
Shutter Speed: 1/3200 sec
-
Aperture: Wide open (typically f/4.5 or f/6.3 depending on the lens)
-
Maximum ISO: 6400
For perched birds I reduce the shutter speed to suit the subject and available light while keeping Auto ISO enabled.
Continue when...
You understand how Manual Exposure and Auto ISO work together and are comfortable selecting shutter speed and aperture independently while allowing the camera to manage ISO automatically.
Next we'll look at choosing the right shutter speed for different wildlife subjects and why it has the biggest influence on image sharpness.-
What to do
-
Decide how much movement your subject is likely to make.
-
Choose the shutter speed before raising the camera.
-
Increase the shutter speed if the subject becomes more active.
-
Allow Auto ISO to compensate for changing light.
-
If the ISO becomes too high, consider opening the aperture rather than reducing shutter speed.
My starting points
Perched birds
-
Calm subjects: 1/800-1/1250 sec
-
Active or nervous birds: 1/1600 sec
Birds in flight
-
Large birds: 1/2500 sec
-
Small birds: 1/3200-1/4000 sec
-
Kingfisher dives or swallows: 1/5000-1/8000 sec
Mammals
-
Resting: 1/500-1/1000 sec
-
Walking: 1/1250 sec
-
Running: 1/2500 sec or faster
Tip
It's usually better to accept a higher ISO than reduce the shutter speed too far. Modern noise reduction software can remove image noise, but no software can restore detail lost through motion blur.
Continue when...
You understand how shutter speed affects subject movement and can choose an appropriate starting point before raising the camera.
Next we'll look at selecting the best aperture and how depth of field influences wildlife photography.-
Why this matters
Aperture controls two key aspects of your photograph: how much light enters the camera and how much of the scene appears in focus. While shutter speed is usually the most important setting for freezing wildlife, selecting the correct aperture allows you to balance depth of field, background blur and overall image sharpness.
A wide aperture produces a shallow depth of field, helping to isolate your subject from the background. A smaller aperture increases the area in focus but may require a slower shutter speed or higher ISO to maintain the correct exposure.
Tip
Most modern lenses are at their sharpest around the middle of their aperture range. For wildlife photography, I generally work between f/6.3 and f/8, which provides an excellent balance of sharpness, depth of field and subject isolation.
If your background is distracting, open the aperture to create more separation. If you need more of your subject, or more of the scene, in focus, stop the lens down a little. Avoid very small apertures such as f/16 or f/22 unless additional depth of field is essential, as diffraction can reduce overall sharpness.
My starting point
For wildlife photography I typically use:
-
Birds in flight: Wide open (typically f/5.6 or f/6.3 depending on the lens)
-
Perched birds: f/6.3 to f/8
-
Wildlife portraits: Use the widest practical aperture for good background separation
-
Environmental wildlife images: f/8 to f/11 when I want more of the habitat in focus
I always adjust the aperture to suit the subject rather than using one setting for every situation.
Continue when...
You understand how aperture affects both depth of field and image sharpness, and you are confident selecting an aperture that suits your subject, background and available light.
Next we'll look at Using Exposure Compensation, explaining when and why to adjust exposure while allowing the camera to calculate the remaining settings automatically.
-
What to do
-
Enable Auto ISO while shooting in Manual Exposure.
-
Press the Exposure Compensation (+/-) button or assign it to a custom control.
-
Rotate the command dial to adjust the exposure.
-
Review the histogram and highlight warnings if required.
-
Return Exposure Compensation to 0.0 when lighting conditions change.
My starting points
-
Dark bird against a bright sky: +0.7 to +1.3 EV
-
White bird against a dark background: -0.3 to -1.0 EV
-
Snow or very bright scenes: +0.7 EV
-
Birds over reflective water: Adjust as required after checking the histogram.
Tip
Don't rely solely on the image displayed on the rear screen. Brightness varies with ambient light, making images appear lighter or darker than they really are. The histogram is a far more reliable guide to accurate exposure.
Continue when...
You understand when Exposure Compensation should be used and can confidently brighten or darken an image without changing your shutter speed or aperture.
Next we'll look at reading the histogram and how it can help you achieve consistently accurate exposures in the field.
-
What to do
-
Enable the histogram during image playback.
-
Take a test photograph.
-
Review the histogram rather than relying solely on the LCD image.
-
If the graph is heavily clipped on the right, reduce the exposure.
-
If important shadow detail is clipped on the left, increase the exposure if appropriate.
-
Adjust Exposure Compensation and shoot again if necessary.
How to interpret it
-
Graph centred: Usually indicates a balanced exposure.
-
Graph towards the left: Dark image with more shadow information.
-
Graph towards the right: Bright image with more highlight information.
-
Touching the left edge: Shadows are clipping and detail may be lost.
-
Touching the right edge: Highlights are clipping and detail may be unrecoverable.
Remember that there is no "perfect" histogram. A dark owl in woodland and a white egret against the sky will naturally produce very different graphs.
Tip
When photographing wildlife, protecting highlight detail is usually more important than eliminating all image noise. It's generally easier to recover shadow detail than blown highlights.
Continue when...
You can recognise when an image is correctly exposed by reading the histogram rather than judging the brightness of the LCD screen.
Next we'll bring everything together with the exposure settings I use most often for wildlife photography and explain why they've proved reliable in the field.
-
Why this matters
Throughout this section we've looked at shutter speed, aperture, Auto ISO, Exposure Compensation and the histogram. The settings below combine these principles into the combinations I use most often when photographing wildlife with my Nikon Z8.
They're not fixed rules, but they provide an excellent starting point and can be adapted as lighting conditions and subjects change.
Perched Birds
-
Exposure Mode: Manual
-
Auto ISO: On
-
Shutter Speed: 1/1000-1/1600 sec
-
Aperture: Wide open
-
Exposure Compensation: 0 EV (adjust if required)
Why I use it
This combination provides a good balance between freezing subtle movement and keeping ISO as low as possible while producing excellent background separation.
Birds in Flight
-
Exposure Mode: Manual
-
Auto ISO: On
-
Shutter Speed: 1/3200-1/4000 sec
-
Aperture: Wide open
-
Exposure Compensation: Adjust as required
Why I use it
Fast shutter speeds are essential for freezing wing movement and maintaining sharp detail while tracking fast-moving birds.
Mammals
-
Exposure Mode: Manual
-
Auto ISO: On
-
Shutter Speed: 1/1000-1/2000 sec
-
Aperture: Wide open or one stop down
-
Exposure Compensation: As required
Why I use it
This provides enough shutter speed for most mammals while maintaining good subject separation and keeping ISO under control.
Macro Photography
-
Exposure Mode: Manual
-
Auto ISO: On
-
Shutter Speed: 1/250-1/500 sec
-
Aperture: f/8 to f/11
-
Exposure Compensation: 0 EV
Why I use it
Macro photography requires greater depth of field, making a smaller aperture more important than achieving the lowest possible ISO.
Tip
These are the settings I return to most often, but wildlife photography is rarely predictable. Be prepared to adjust your shutter speed, aperture or Exposure Compensation as behaviour, light and weather conditions change.
Continue when...
You have a reliable starting point for photographing wildlife with your Nikon Z8 and understand how to adapt these settings in different situations.
Next we'll look at Nikon's Photo Shooting Banks and Custom Settings Banks, showing you how to save different camera configurations and switch between them quickly in the field.
-
Using Banks and Custom Settings
The Nikon Z8 includes two powerful features that let you save and recall different camera configurations. Although they can seem confusing at first, once you understand the difference between Photo Shooting Banks and Custom Settings Banks, you'll be able to adapt your camera quickly for different shooting situations.
Why this matters
One of the Nikon Z8's most powerful features is its ability to save different groups of settings as Banks.
Instead of changing dozens of settings every time your subject changes, you can recall an entire camera configuration in seconds.
Think of Banks as different camera "profiles". For example, you might have one setup for birds in flight, another for perched birds and another for landscape photography.
Understanding how Banks work will save time, reduce mistakes and help you react more quickly in the field.
What are Banks?
The Nikon Z8 has two separate types of Bank:
-
Photo Shooting Banks save your shooting settings, such as image quality, white balance, Picture Control and exposure-related options.
-
Custom Settings Banks save many of the camera's behaviour settings, including autofocus, controls and custom button assignments.
The two banks work independently but can be used together to create complete camera setups.
Example
You could select:
Photo Shooting Bank A
-
RAW
-
Manual Exposure
-
Auto ISO
-
Continuous High shooting
Together with:
Custom Settings Bank A
-
AF-C
-
Wide-area AF (C1)
-
Bird Subject Detection
-
Your preferred custom button assignments
Switching both banks instantly recalls your preferred wildlife setup.
Tip
Many photographers avoid using Banks because they seem confusing at first. Once understood, they become one of the Nikon Z8's most useful features and can greatly speed up your workflow in the field.
Continue when...
You understand that the Nikon Z8 has two independent Bank systems, each storing different groups of settings that can be combined to create complete camera configurations.
Next we'll look at Photo Shooting Banks and exactly which settings they store.-
Why this matters
Photo Shooting Banks allow you to save different shooting configurations for different types of photography. Instead of changing multiple settings every time you switch subjects, you can simply select another bank and continue shooting.
Each Photo Shooting Bank stores settings related to how the image is captured, but it does not store most autofocus behaviour or custom button assignments.
What Photo Shooting Banks store
Photo Shooting Banks save settings such as:
-
Exposure Mode
-
Shutter Speed
-
Aperture
-
ISO and Auto ISO
-
Exposure Compensation
-
White Balance
-
Image Quality
-
Image Size
-
Colour Space
-
Picture Control
-
Active D-Lighting
-
High ISO Noise Reduction
-
Long Exposure Noise Reduction
-
Flash settings
-
Multiple Exposure settings
These settings determine how your photographs are recorded.
What they don't store
Photo Shooting Banks do not store many camera behaviour settings, including:
-
Focus Mode
-
AF-area Mode
-
Subject Detection
-
Custom button assignments
-
Most Custom Settings Menu options
These are saved separately in the Custom Settings Banks.
How I use them
Although Photo Shooting Banks are extremely powerful, I generally leave mine set to a single wildlife configuration and make changes only when photographing something completely different, such as landscapes or macro subjects.
For most wildlife photography, I find that changing shutter speed, aperture or Exposure Compensation is quicker than constantly switching Photo Shooting Banks.
Tip
If you use Banks, give each one a specific purpose. For example:
-
Bank A: Wildlife
-
Bank B: Landscape
-
Bank C: Macro
-
Bank D: Video
Keeping each bank dedicated to a particular style of photography makes them much easier to remember.
Continue when...
You understand that Photo Shooting Banks store image capture settings rather than autofocus behaviour or camera controls.
Next we'll look at Custom Settings Banks, which store the camera's autofocus behaviour, controls and many of the settings you'll change most often.
-
Why this matters
While Photo Shooting Banks control how your photographs are recorded, Custom Settings Banks control how your Nikon Z8 behaves. They store many of the autofocus settings, button assignments and camera functions that determine how the camera operates in the field.
For wildlife photographers, these are often the more important of the two Bank systems.
What Custom Settings Banks store
Custom Settings Banks save many settings from the Custom Settings Menu, including:
-
Focus Mode preferences
-
AF-area behaviour
-
Subject tracking options
-
AF activation
-
Release priority
-
Continuous shooting behaviour
-
Display options
-
Timer settings
-
Custom button assignments
-
Function button behaviour
-
Controls and operation settings
These settings determine how the camera responds while you're photographing.
What they don't store
Custom Settings Banks do not store your exposure settings, including:
-
Exposure Mode
-
Shutter Speed
-
Aperture
-
ISO
-
White Balance
-
Image Quality
-
Picture Controls
These belong to the Photo Shooting Banks.
How I use them
Unlike Photo Shooting Banks, I make extensive use of Custom Settings Banks. I keep different autofocus and control configurations for different types of wildlife photography while leaving my core exposure settings largely unchanged.
For example, one bank is optimised for perched birds, while another is configured for birds in flight with different autofocus behaviour and custom button functions.
Tip
Think of it this way:
-
Photo Shooting Banks = How the image is recorded.
-
Custom Settings Banks = How the camera behaves.
Once you understand this distinction, Banks become much easier to use.
Continue when...
You understand the difference between the two Bank systems and know which type of settings each one stores.
Next I'll show you how I organise and use Banks on my own Nikon Z8 and explain why I've chosen that workflow.
-
Why this matters
There are countless ways to configure Banks on the Nikon Z8. Rather than trying to create a different Bank for every possible subject, I've developed a simple workflow that lets me react quickly while keeping the camera familiar.
My approach
I use Custom Settings Banks far more than Photo Shooting Banks.
For most wildlife photography, I leave my Photo Shooting Bank largely unchanged. My preferred exposure method is Manual Exposure with Auto ISO, so I simply adjust shutter speed, aperture and Exposure Compensation as conditions change.
Instead, I use Custom Settings Banks to alter how the autofocus system behaves for different situations.
My workflow
-
Photo Shooting Bank A
-
General wildlife photography
-
Manual Exposure with Auto ISO
-
RAW (Lossless Compressed)
-
Adobe RGB
-
-
Custom Settings Bank A
-
Perched birds
-
Single-point AF
-
Bird Subject Detection
-
-
Custom Settings Bank B
-
Birds in flight
-
Wide-area AF (C1)
-
Bird Subject Detection
-
-
Custom Settings Bank C
-
Mammals
-
Wide-area AF (L)
-
Animal Subject Detection
-
I rarely use a fourth bank, preferring to keep my workflow as simple as possible.
Why I use it
Keeping the exposure settings consistent means I always know how the camera will respond. When the subject changes, I only need to switch the Custom Settings Bank to instantly change the autofocus behaviour.
This approach keeps the camera predictable while reducing the amount of menu diving in the field.
Tip
Banks are designed to speed up photography, not complicate it. If you find yourself constantly wondering which Bank you're using, you probably have too many. Start with one or two Banks and expand only if you genuinely need them.
Continue when...
You understand how I use Banks to simplify my workflow and can decide whether a similar approach would suit your own photography.
Next we'll look at how to customise the i Menu, giving you instant access to your most frequently used settings without searching through the menus.
-
Why this matters
After spending time configuring your Nikon Z8, the last thing you want is to lose your settings after a camera reset, firmware update or accidental menu change.
The Z8 allows you to save your complete camera configuration to a memory card, making it easy to restore everything in minutes.
What to do
-
Insert a formatted memory card.
-
Press the MENU button.
-
Open the Setup Menu (spanner icon).
-
Select Save/load menu settings.
-
Choose Save menu settings.
-
Confirm the save.
The camera writes your current configuration to the memory card.
To restore your settings
-
Insert the card containing the backup.
-
Open Setup Menu > Save/load menu settings.
-
Select Load menu settings.
-
Confirm the operation.
Your saved configuration will be restored.
Tip
I create a fresh backup whenever I make significant changes to my camera setup or after installing new firmware. I also keep a copy of the settings file on my computer, so I always have a second backup if a memory card is lost or damaged.
Continue when...
Your Nikon Z8 settings have been backed up and can be restored whenever required.
Next we'll customise the i Menu, giving you fast access to the settings you use most often while photographing wildlife.
-
Wildlife Photography in Practice
Next, we'll move away from the camera menus and into the field, where I'll share the techniques and camera settings I use to photograph wildlife with the Nikon Z8.
Your Nikon Z8 is now configured and ready for the field. In this section, I'll explain the camera settings, techniques and fieldcraft I use for different wildlife subjects. These are the methods I've developed through photographing British wildlife in a wide range of conditions.
Why this matters
Perched birds are often the first subjects photographers encounter, but they can also be some of the most rewarding. Unlike birds in flight, they give you time to think about composition, light and background rather than simply reacting to movement.
Success comes from patience, careful observation and understanding the bird's behaviour before pressing the shutter.
My approach
When I find a perched bird, I avoid taking photographs immediately. Instead, I spend a few moments observing its behaviour and the surrounding environment.
I look for:
-
A clean, uncluttered background.
-
Good direction of light.
-
An attractive perch.
-
The bird's position and likely direction of movement.
-
Potential distractions entering the frame.
Only when these elements come together do I begin photographing.
My recommended starting settings
-
Exposure Mode: Manual with Auto ISO
-
Focus Mode: AF-C
-
AF-area Mode: Single-point AF
-
Subject Detection: Bird
-
Release Mode: Single Frame
-
Shutter Speed: 1/1000-1/1600 sec
-
Aperture: Wide open
-
Image Quality: RAW (Lossless Compression)
Field tip
Focus on the bird's eye whenever possible. A photograph with a critically sharp eye will usually appear sharper and more engaging than one where the focus has fallen on the body or perch.
If the bird is calm, resist the temptation to fill the frame immediately. Leave a little space around the subject and consider the background just as carefully as the bird itself.
Common mistakes
-
Photographing from too high an angle.
-
Ignoring distracting branches or bright backgrounds.
-
Using a shutter speed that's too slow.
-
Focusing on the body instead of the eye.
-
Taking dozens of identical photographs without changing composition.
Continue when...
You're comfortable photographing stationary birds and understand how light, background and composition influence the final image.
Next we'll look at one of the most challenging subjects in wildlife photography: photographing birds in flight.-
Why this matters
Birds in flight are among the most challenging wildlife subjects to photograph. Success depends on combining good fieldcraft with the right camera settings, smooth tracking and an understanding of bird behaviour.
Rather than trying to react after a bird has taken off, the key is to anticipate the moment and be ready before it happens.
My approach
Before raising the camera, I watch the bird carefully and try to predict its next movement. Many species show subtle signs before taking flight, such as crouching, looking in the direction they intend to fly or briefly lifting their wings.
Whenever possible, I position myself with the sun behind me and a clean background beyond the bird. This makes autofocus more reliable and produces more pleasing images.
My recommended starting settings
-
Exposure Mode: Manual with Auto ISO
-
Focus Mode: AF-C
-
AF-area Mode: Wide-area AF (C1)
-
Subject Detection: Bird
-
Release Mode: Continuous High
-
Shutter Speed: 1/3200-1/4000 sec
-
Aperture: Wide open
-
Image Quality: RAW (Lossless Compression)
Field tip
Keep both eyes open while tracking a bird in flight. One eye follows the subject through the viewfinder, while the other helps you anticipate changes in direction and maintain awareness of the surrounding scene.
Begin tracking before pressing the shutter and continue following the bird after taking the photograph. Smooth panning produces far better results than trying to stop abruptly when you hear the shutter.
Common mistakes
-
Waiting until the bird has already taken off.
-
Using a shutter speed that's too slow.
-
Stopping the camera movement as soon as the shutter is pressed.
-
Filling the frame too tightly, making it difficult to keep the bird within the autofocus area.
-
Giving up after a few unsuccessful attempts. Birds in flight require practice, patience and persistence.
Continue when...
You're comfortable tracking birds in flight and understand how anticipation, camera settings and smooth technique work together to improve your success rate.
Next we'll look at photographing kingfishers, where understanding behaviour and careful preparation are often more important than camera settings alone.
-
Why this matters
Kingfishers are one of Britain's most photographed birds, but they're also among the most challenging.
Their speed, unpredictable behaviour and preference for shaded rivers make them a demanding subject, even for experienced photographers.
Success is rarely about luck. It comes from understanding their behaviour, respecting their environment and returning to the same location over time.
My approach
Whenever I discover an active kingfisher territory, I spend time watching before taking any photographs. Understanding where the bird likes to perch, hunt and fish allows me to anticipate opportunities rather than reacting to them.
Patience is one of the most valuable tools a wildlife photographer can have. It's not unusual for me to spend several hours waiting for just a few minutes of photographic activity.
Whenever possible, I work from a hide or remain still in a discreet position, allowing the birds to behave naturally without disturbance.
My recommended starting settings
-
Exposure Mode: Manual with Auto ISO
-
Focus Mode: AF-C
-
AF-area Mode: Wide-area AF (C1) or Single-point AF
-
Subject Detection: Bird
-
Release Mode: Continuous High
-
Shutter Speed: 1/3200-1/5000 sec
-
Aperture: Wide open
-
Image Quality: RAW (Lossless Compression)
Field tip
Don't become so focused on the bird that you ignore the perch and background. A beautifully lit kingfisher on an untidy perch with a distracting background rarely produces a memorable photograph.
I often return to the same perch over several visits, waiting for the right combination of behaviour, light and background rather than simply recording another image of the bird.
Common mistakes
-
Standing too close to the perch.
-
Moving as the bird approaches.
-
Chasing the bird from perch to perch.
-
Ignoring the direction and quality of the light.
-
Expecting success during a single visit rather than building knowledge over time.
Continue when...
You understand that successful kingfisher photography relies on patience, observation and fieldcraft as much as camera settings.
Next we'll look at photographing mammals and the different techniques needed when working with larger, often more cautious wildlife.
-
Why this matters
Photographing mammals requires a different approach to photographing birds. While many birds are quick to fly away, mammals often rely on their senses of smell, hearing and movement to detect danger.
Success depends on patience, careful observation and allowing the animal to behave naturally.
Rather than chasing the subject, the goal is to become part of the environment so the animal accepts your presence.
My approach
Whenever possible, I spend time watching the animal before taking photographs. I pay attention to its behaviour, direction of travel and how comfortable it appears with my presence.
I always move slowly, avoid sudden movements and keep noise to a minimum. If an animal shows signs of stress or changes its behaviour because of me, I back away and allow it space.
Whenever practical, I position myself at the animal's eye level. This creates more engaging photographs and helps produce a natural background with better separation.
My recommended starting settings
-
Exposure Mode: Manual with Auto ISO
-
Focus Mode: AF-C
-
AF-area Mode: Wide-area AF (L)
-
Subject Detection: Animal
-
Release Mode: Single Frame or Continuous High
-
Shutter Speed: 1/1000-1/2000 sec
-
Aperture: Wide open
-
Image Quality: RAW (Lossless Compression)
Field tip
The best mammal photographs often show natural behaviour rather than simply recording the animal's appearance. Feeding, grooming, interacting with young or pausing to look towards the camera can all create far stronger images than a straightforward record shot.
Be patient and let the moment develop rather than firing continuous bursts throughout the encounter.
Common mistakes
-
Approaching animals too quickly.
-
Standing upright when a lower viewpoint would be more effective.
-
Ignoring the direction of the wind, allowing your scent to alert the animal.
-
Focusing only on the animal instead of considering the background and available light.
-
Disturbing the animal simply to obtain a closer photograph.
Continue when...
You understand how patience, fieldcraft and respectful behaviour can help you photograph mammals naturally while minimising disturbance.
Next we'll explore macro photography, where precision, depth of field and careful focusing become the keys to success.
-
Why this matters
Macro photography opens up a fascinating world of detail that's often overlooked. From dragonflies and butterflies to fungi and flowers, close-up photography reveals textures, colours and behaviour that are invisible to the naked eye.
Unlike bird photography, where shutter speed is often the priority, macro photography demands careful attention to focus, depth of field and camera stability.
My approach
I begin by observing the subject and its surroundings before taking the camera to my eye. I look for a clean background, the direction of the light and whether the subject is likely to remain still.
When photographing insects, I approach slowly and avoid casting my shadow over them. Early mornings are often the most productive, as cooler temperatures make insects less active and easier to photograph.
Rather than filling the frame immediately, I take time to compose the image carefully and ensure the most important part of the subject is critically sharp.
My recommended starting settings
-
Exposure Mode: Manual with Auto ISO
-
Focus Mode: MF or AF-C
-
AF-area Mode: Pinpoint AF or Single-point AF
-
Subject Detection: Off
-
Release Mode: Single Frame
-
Shutter Speed: 1/250-1/500 sec
-
Aperture: f/8-f/11
-
Image Quality: RAW (Lossless Compression)
Field tip
In macro photography, the plane of focus is extremely narrow. Whenever possible, focus on the nearest eye of an insect. Even a slight movement by you or the subject can shift focus, so take your time and don't be afraid to capture several frames with tiny adjustments in focus.
Common mistakes
-
Using an aperture that's too wide, resulting in insufficient depth of field.
-
Photographing in windy conditions without waiting for the subject to become still.
-
Casting your shadow over the subject.
-
Focusing on the body instead of the eyes.
-
Rushing the composition instead of paying attention to the background.
Continue when...
You understand the importance of careful focusing, depth of field and patience when photographing close-up subjects.
Next we'll look at photographing wildlife in low light, where careful exposure, steady technique and understanding your camera's capabilities become increasingly important.
-
Why this matters
Wildlife is often most active during the early morning and late evening, when light levels are at their lowest. These conditions can produce beautiful colours, softer shadows and more atmospheric photographs, but they also place greater demands on both the photographer and the camera.
The Nikon Z8 performs exceptionally well in low light, but success still depends on balancing shutter speed, aperture and ISO while maintaining accurate focus.
My approach
When light begins to fade, I keep my exposure mode in Manual with Auto ISO and concentrate on maintaining a shutter speed fast enough to freeze my subject's movement.
Rather than reducing the shutter speed too much, I prefer to allow the ISO to increase. Modern cameras and software produce excellent results at higher ISO values, whereas motion blur cannot be corrected afterwards.
I also look carefully at the direction and quality of the available light. Even a small patch of sunlight or an opening in the trees can transform an ordinary photograph into something far more dramatic.
My recommended starting settings
-
Exposure Mode: Manual with Auto ISO
-
Focus Mode: AF-C
-
AF-area Mode: Wide-area AF (L) or Single-point AF
-
Subject Detection: Bird or Animal
-
Release Mode: Single Frame or Continuous High
-
Shutter Speed: Adjust to suit the subject
-
Aperture: Wide open
-
Image Quality: RAW (Lossless Compression)
Field tip
Don't be afraid of higher ISO values. A sharp photograph with a little image noise is almost always preferable to a blurred photograph with a lower ISO. Modern noise reduction software is remarkably effective, but no software can recover detail lost through subject movement.
Common mistakes
-
Reducing the shutter speed too much.
-
Closing the aperture instead of making full use of the lens.
-
Judging exposure solely from the rear LCD rather than checking the histogram.
-
Leaving the location too early, as some of the most rewarding light often appears just before sunrise or after sunset.
-
Packing away the camera when conditions look dull. Soft, overcast light can be ideal for revealing feather and fur detail.
Continue when...
You understand how to balance shutter speed, aperture and ISO as light levels fall, and can confidently continue photographing when others may have packed their cameras away.
Next we'll look at fieldcraft and getting closer to wildlife, where understanding animal behaviour often makes a greater difference than any camera setting.
-
Why this matters
The best wildlife photographs are rarely the result of having the longest lens or the most expensive camera. More often, they're the reward for patience, careful observation and understanding animal behaviour.
Learning how to approach wildlife respectfully and predict its behaviour will improve your photography far more than constantly changing camera settings.
My approach
Whenever I arrive at a location, I spend time observing before taking the camera from my bag. I look for signs of wildlife activity, identify potential perches, feeding areas and flight paths, and consider how the light will affect my photographs.
Rather than chasing wildlife, I allow it to come to me. Remaining still, moving slowly and blending into the surroundings often produces much more natural behaviour than constantly repositioning.
I also return to the same locations throughout the year. Familiarity with a site and its wildlife often leads to more successful photographs than visiting somewhere new every weekend.
Field tips
-
Arrive early and allow wildlife to settle before you begin photographing.
-
Move slowly and avoid sudden movements.
-
Wear muted colours that blend with the environment.
-
Keep noise to a minimum.
-
Work with the light whenever possible.
-
Learn the habits and behaviour of your chosen species.
-
Be prepared to wait. Patience is often rewarded.
Common mistakes
-
Walking directly towards wildlife.
-
Moving too quickly after spotting a subject.
-
Ignoring the direction of the light.
-
Chasing wildlife from place to place.
-
Disturbing birds during the breeding season or mammals with young.
-
Focusing on getting closer instead of improving your fieldcraft.
A personal thought
Some of my favourite photographs have come after hours of waiting without taking a single frame. Wildlife photography isn't simply about pressing the shutter. It's about spending time in nature, understanding the behaviour of your subjects and allowing the photograph to develop naturally.
The camera records the image, but patience is often what creates it.
Continue when...
You understand that successful wildlife photography is built on observation, respect and patience as much as camera technique.
Next we'll look at some of the most common mistakes made by new wildlife photographers and how you can avoid them from the very beginning.-
Why this matters
Every wildlife photographer makes mistakes, especially when starting out. I certainly did. The good news is that most of them are easy to avoid once you recognise them.
The following are some of the most common mistakes I see, together with the lessons I've learned through years of photographing British wildlife.
Focusing too much on the camera
It's easy to become obsessed with settings, menus and equipment. While these are important, understanding your subject and the environment is often far more valuable.
Ignoring the background
A beautiful bird against a cluttered background rarely creates a memorable photograph. Before pressing the shutter, take a moment to check what lies behind your subject.
Using a shutter speed that's too slow
Many photographs appear sharp on the camera's LCD but reveal motion blur when viewed on a computer.
If in doubt, increase the shutter speed and let Auto ISO compensate.
Photographing from standing height
Whenever it's safe and practical, try photographing from the subject's eye level. This creates a more natural perspective and often produces softer, less distracting backgrounds.
Getting too close
Approaching wildlife too quickly usually results in the subject moving away or behaving unnaturally.
Respect the animal's comfort zone and allow it to decide whether to approach you.
Relying on luck instead of observation
The best wildlife photographers don't simply react to opportunities. They learn behaviour, recognise patterns and anticipate what will happen next.
Taking too many photographs
Continuous bursts have their place, but more photographs don't always mean better photographs. Pause regularly, review your composition and wait for the right moment rather than recording hundreds of almost identical frames.
Not enjoying the experience
Wildlife photography isn't just about bringing home photographs. Some days you'll capture wonderful images, while other days you'll simply enjoy being outdoors.
Both are valuable experiences.
Final thoughts
The Nikon Z8 is an exceptionally capable camera, but it remains just a tool. The photographs you create will always depend more on your observation, patience and understanding of wildlife than on any menu setting.
Learn your camera well, spend time in the field and never stop experimenting. Every outing teaches you something new.
Continue your journey
I hope this guide has helped you become more familiar with your Nikon Z8 and given you the confidence to explore its capabilities.
You'll find more in-depth articles, field guides and practical wildlife photography resources throughout my website, all based on real-world experience with the Nikon Z8 in the field.
Above all, enjoy the journey. Wildlife photography is a lifelong learning experience, and that's one of the reasons I love it.
Final Thoughts
When I bought my first Nikon Z8, I quickly realised that it wasn't a camera you could fully understand in an afternoon. Its capabilities are remarkable, but they can also feel overwhelming to a new owner.
That's exactly why I created this guide.
Rather than explaining every menu item, my aim has been to provide a practical starting point based on the settings and techniques I use in the field. I hope this guide helps you become familiar with your camera more quickly, giving you the confidence to concentrate on what really matters: enjoying your photography.
Remember, there isn't a single perfect camera setup. As your experience grows, your settings will naturally evolve. Don't be afraid to experiment, make mistakes and refine your own workflow. Every outing is an opportunity to learn something new.
Most importantly, remember that your camera is only one part of the process. Patience, observation and an understanding of wildlife will always have a greater influence on your photographs than any menu setting.
Continue Your Nikon Z8 Journey
This guide is just the beginning. Throughout my website you'll find additional Nikon Z8 resources, including:
-
Detailed autofocus guides.
-
Menu-by-menu setup articles.
-
Wildlife photography techniques.
-
Free downloadable field guides.
-
Behind-the-scenes field journals.
-
Regular updates as Nikon releases new firmware and I continue to refine my own workflow.
Thank you for taking the time to read this guide. I hope it helps you get the very best from your Nikon Z8 and gives you the confidence to enjoy photographing the natural world.
I wish you every success with your photography and look forward to sharing more field experiences, guides and resources with you in the future.
Alan Young
Alan Young Photography
Found an error or have a suggestion?
This guide is updated regularly as the Nikon Z8 evolves. If you spot an error or have a suggestion, please get in touch via the Contact page. Your feedback helps keep this guide accurate and up to date for everyone.
